Sounds like your having fun.modding is good,enjoy.
Sounds like your having fun.modding is good,enjoy.
Be the person your dog thinks you are...
Nice list ya got there, just wondering what kind of price all that is gonna cost ya? itll be really cool when its done, looking forward to it
Go here and see if you can make sense of it then try it out in a way you can easily repair if your guess was wrong. I haven't done it on mine yet cos it seems they wired the bikes with spare parts from uncle bob's rainbow wire shop and all the looms are a combination of colours etc. There are some pic's there of the "black box" plugs but I haven't had a look at mine to see how it all lines up.
Lots of the posts say pull the wire out. I would cut it so you can use a crimp connector or solder it back together if you've got it wrong.
I'm selling my new riding gear!! Only worn a few times get a deal Kiwibikers!!
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...53#post1414653
Looked under my CDI just now and it seems the dealer has sorted the ignition retard wire for me. The pics are the wires showing which one is cut, the code on the top of the unit and the code on the end of the unit if that means anything to anyone.
I'm selling my new riding gear!! Only worn a few times get a deal Kiwibikers!!
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...53#post1414653
That's exactly what I did - only a little neater. Didn't actually 'Cut" the wire, just removed it from the plug and insulated it. If anyone wants to do this but is worried about getting the wrong wire try this:
Hyosung GT250/R 2006/7 (NZ new imports)
1. Open up the seat.
2. Un bolt the CDI unit. (small black brick next to the relays)
3. Disconnect the Brown plug from the CDI. BE GENTLE.
4. Get a very small Alan key - preferably one that will fit into on of the circular holes in the 'male' end of the brown plug.
5. Locate the Green/Blue wire.
6. This wire should be in the same position as in Pancakes photo - if it is in a different position DO NOT REMOVE.
7. Use the alan key to carefuly push the copper contact out of the plug. It should pop out the other side with the wire, blue plastic bung, and copper contact all in perfect condition.
8. Tape up the end of end of the copper contact VERY thoughly with electrical tape. If you have some kind of plastic insulation to cover it as well I suggest using that.
9. Tuck the loose wire back into the loom.
10. Reattach the CDI.
11. Power up the bike but DONT start it. Check all your lights work, and check the digital dash if you have one.
12. If everything works fine continue - if anything has stop working then stop here - you've fucked up.
13. Fire up the bike. Let it idle. Listen for anything odd - firing on one cylinder etc... normal? Good!
14. Test the kill switch. If it doesn't work, you fucked up.
15. Everything works go ride the bike. You should notice a VERY smooth power curve now.
Extra for experts: Go buy a nice big exhaust, or get yours debaffled. Then get a new air filter, then get it re-jetted. (being cheap and not getting the re-jetting will fuck your bike in the long run) Enjoy the most powerful Hyobag on the block.
"I have this really bad problem with not finishing my..."
Bloody hell thats going to be a quick hyo ,nice modding mate love the new exhaust ,how much has that cost you so far ?
I know this is really the wrong thread for this, but all the arguments have been happening in this one.
Today, with my arse slid right back in the seat, stomach & chest flat on the tank and my head as low as safely possible I had my standard GT250R up to 169kms(keep in mind the speedo, like all GT250R's, is out). It would'nt go any higher though. I was to busy watching the road and speedo to look at the tacho, but I imagine it was on the redline and this is what would have been limiting my speed.
So in short, the GT250R's gear ratios wont allow these great speeds people always seem to talk about
Sucks eh
While you sit there liking things just cos' everyone else does, I'll be standing up here keeping it real.
You would need to be doing something real wrong for it to fuck it up catastrophically, will probably just run a bit dodgy.
Now that you've done the easy stuff, you can:
1) Port and Polish, all you need is some carbide bits, a marker pen, some gaskets, some time, a micrometer, a telescopic lever thingie that pops out and measures inside diammeters (cant remember what it is called), some more time, a scriber... okay you need alot of shit, but thats not the point!
2) skim the head, find out the distance between valves and piston when they are closest together, skim head appropriately. Or skim even more and mill the piston...
3) Mirror polishing, lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of sanding...
4) high compression pistons... you know you wanna
5) 50/50 mix of 101 race fuel and 98
acceleration and all...
I've done 2 of the above (port and polish, mirror polishing), cleaned out the engine, debaffled the exhaust, put a velocity stack on the carb, jetted the carb appropriately, added some fancy HT leads and a big arse fuck coil too. added tooth on front sprocket. I've seen 150km/h according to Mr. GPS and got there pretty quick. Round town is perfect, sits at about 5500rpm at 100km/h. Dyno run said 36hp at the wheel.
Did i mention this was on a gn250?
All fun and games eh
But seriously, who cares about top speed? i mean, 150, sure, woohoo, zx10 does 280 without caring...
Have fun with your bike, don't blow it up now
Denis
Well, big ups Enzo for having a mod frenzy....!
I'd be quite interested in seeing how your bike turns out aye so keep an eye out for the Auckland Uni SMC club rides or Wednesday/Monday Night Mentor Ride, I'll be there.
My 929 is still faster though.. !
Thats the first thing I though when I read the AMAZING speeds people were posting on stock Hyo 250's. Thats a few grand over redline and a loooong road with the top speed trade off with accelleration.
Running lean and overheating the exhaust valve stem coupled valve bounce when they are over-revved with soft valve springs (and they must be looking at the torque curve on these, they are made for low efficiency not top end) will see the valve head in the combustion chamber in the near future. Haven't heard of it on a Hyo but thats how you mod and kill a bike.
Sounds like the bizzo GN FilthyL, way ta go!
I'm selling my new riding gear!! Only worn a few times get a deal Kiwibikers!!
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...53#post1414653
Cheers
I know bout the running lean will cause all sorts of nasties, but surely that extent of lean-ness (is that the term im lookin for? something like that) wont be caused by a replacement air filter and a free flow pipe?
Oh, and dude who started this thread whose name i can't remember because the back button is all the way up there, i know a guy out in henderson called warren bridges, the guy is a master with carbs, PM me if you want his number. He doesn't charge an arm and a leg either
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