I am getting geared up to modify an ex AliExpress 50cc watercooled twostroke engine.
At present, I am building a model plane engine partly using chainsaw parts, just for fun, and to see if I can get it to run without blowing up.
I want to graduate to a watercooled engine, much like the guy who runs "2strokeStuffing" on YouTube.
I need:
1) a better benchtop lathe;
2) a small mill;
3) A tig welder and gear suitable for welding aluminium- possibly 250A pulsed??
4) To build a water brake;
5) to set up a load-cell dyno...
before I start on an engine.
I have got the Engmod2T package, but haven't tried it out yet.
What I want to try is clearing out the Nikasil;
welding stiffener bars to the barrel and totally rearranging the porting;
Make my own 360 degree piston;
Reorganising the barrel to a no-cutout design, with barrel lift for the transfers;
reweld, lift the case deck, and space the base studs out more.
Then bore and get the Nikasil coating redone.
I want to avoid having to design the whole thing in 3D CAD; and getting the barrel 3D-printed in aluminium.
Investment casting ends up being quite expensive, with a lot of learning and reject castings.
Possibly I need to start with a fresh liner, and weld the port fittings onto that.
I think the engine I am looking at is a barrel-cutout type.
Arranging for water passage cavities is a bit tricky, and I don't know if I can do a wet liner with part of the existing upper barrel.
Does anyone want to discuss this project idea?
Has anyone you know of tried anything similar?
Are there standard barrels available that would need less work to adapt?
I am interested in the two-layer port concept, where exhaust ports go about 240 degrees of the circumference, and a there is a full circle of transfers below the exhausts.
The transfer passages would need to be downsized a little to preserve crankcase compression;
and the exhaust manifold/ collector would look like 2 scroll cases that intersect at the outlet.
I also want to look at combined reed valve, and full 360 degree top end inlet flow driven by the pipe.
This seems to work OK on the 2strokeStuffing engine, with an inlet extension tube, and fairly low crankcase compression.
I would use a butterfly valve as the changeover device, and run off the one carb.
It would be an advantage to get the butterfly as close as possible to the crankcase, and split the reed valve cage into two pieces.
- space to fit all this could be a problem.
I need to get an engine before I can lay this out further, so I can measure everything up.
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