FZR Manual Clutch Conversion

[FZR-Spaz]

Hi All,

New to the forum and didn't know if to put in here or the prototyping area, I have previously some talk on this but couldn't find it.

I am wanting to convert from hydraulic clutch setup to manual one and figured someone might have some good information.

I have seen a few kits around over the years and find this one - http://www.motionlogics.com/contents...onversion.html
and also know that there was a few bikes you could get parts from for the conversion or the old race kits from yamaha and one stage i heard someone in NZ made them but that was long time ago.

But as we know its all about cost and i am trying to keep it down. sadly i wont have access to any real machining equipment to later this year even then depends on money.

So for now any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated or any information
Thanks

[Grumph]

Many moons back, I used to do cable clutch conversions for GSXR750's in speedway TQ's.
Basically the same as those you've linked to. Hardest part is finding an area you can bolt a pivot to.
Lever length is trial and error. I used to weld a pivot assembly up in steel - and the lever was 8mm square tube.
You need a cable anchorage point too.

[F5 Dave]

Is the Exup brotherhood forums still going? Could be good port of call. My 750SP I left std after sealkit was good unless abused. Basket oiling mods help with squeeling.

[pete376403]

What is the benefit of cable vs hydraulic clutch operation? I'm in the midst of going the other way on the KLR. Cheap setup from Banggood, so no great loss if it's not successful

[Reckless]

I have a 1040 engine on the water from england for the race bike.

Part of the package is this clutch in the pic.

Looks like Vincoracing do them if the pic is correct.

Give them a google

[FZR-Spaz]

Many moons back, I used to do cable clutch conversions for GSXR750's in speedway TQ's.
Basically the same as those you've linked to. Hardest part is finding an area you can bolt a pivot to.
Lever length is trial and error. I used to weld a pivot assembly up in steel - and the lever was 8mm square tube.
You need a cable anchorage point too.

Thanks for the info

I am currently waiting on some silver steel so i can create a new clutch push-rod or be used as a push rod lever side so i can keep the oem push-rod but overall found the problems you described and sure i will get there in the end (hopefully with someone i could reproduce..i like to keep things simple)

[FZR-Spaz]

What is the benefit of cable vs hydraulic clutch operation? I'm in the midst of going the other way on the KLR. Cheap setup from Banggood, so no great loss if it's not successful

If i am honest think its a preference thing, for me i would have to say the biggest factors are repair / replacement cost of parts and whats available locally or even in NZ

I also do lots of conversions for buggies / 3 wheelers / quads on top of the occasional custom bike (i am a jack of all trades but master of none and since a TBI 4ish years ago i do my best to learn / re-learn when i can). So i tend to find that due to loading of the engine differently a cable gives far more feel than the hydraulic counterpart.

I could probably go on for awhile why i like them but each to there own and i have yet had a cable driven system try kill me vs hydraulic systems on a bike (so far haha)

[F5 Dave]

Think it cost $30 for a seal, bit of a tickle up with wet and dry. New fluid.